The Hungarian Varieties: Major Whites
Living my life as a self-employed, all-Hungarian wine importer, it's easy to lose sight of what's happening in the world. Recently, one of my out-of-state distributors asked me to suggest some study materials on Hungarian wine. I quickly searched the web, assuming it couldn't be too hard to find something to share – and I was pretty surprised at how little there was. A scant two books from the last 20 years, both out of print; a few articles, many of which I helped contribute to. Nothing deeper that I could definitively refer her to.
The whole thing made me realize that I should probably be talking more about Hungarian wine. Is it possible, you might wonder? Let's find out!
I thought I could start by talking a bit about the Hungarian major varieties. This first installment will be the three most important Hungarian white grapes: Hárslevelű, Furmint and Olaszrizling.
Hárslevelű. If you've met me and we've tasted Hungarian wine together, you already know that I love Hárslevelű. Its name means "Linden leaf" and it's native to and grown all over Hungary. We have examples from Somló, Mátra, Eger, and Tokaj, but I feel like I'm on a constant mission to convince more of our winemakers to grow it. Many producers opt for Furmint or Olaszrizling instead; I think they imagine that the former is ideal for the export market, and the latter is preferable for the domestic market. But I think that the export market just needs a little push to get as excited about Hárslevelű as I am!
Hárslevelű is a thin-skinned, late-ripening variety that makes aromatic white wines with fuller body and texture. Hárslevelű wines are pretty easy-to-love, with their honeyed aromatics (always like honeysuckle and honeydew melon for me), quince and apricot flavors, and luscious, waxy textures. If we're comparing Hungarian grapes to international varieties, this (not Furmint) is the closest to Chenin Blanc. The wines can have good acidity, but they don't normally rip like Furmints can. When aged, its aromas become more pronounced, and a hint of Riesling-like petrol can appear amid the ample honeycomb and elderflower. Hárslevelű can make a very waxy wine, but if the wine is from a place with overpowering volcanic terroir (like Tokaj or Somló) that waxiness won't be as easy to detect as with wines from other regions.
Pronunciation: "harsh - level - ooooo" - or simply refer to our song + music video here.
Importer insights: Hárslevelű doesn't love to travel. Give it a month or two to calm down after a rocky ride across the Atlantic.
Furmint. This variety is closely related to Hárslevelű and better-known abroad, with more structure and acid and (in my opinion) more of a tough-love beauty than the latter. It's thick-skinned and late-ripening, making it ideal for the development of botrytis (which is the fungus that creates the dense grape sugars used for Tokaji Aszú dessert wine). It is believed that this grape is native to Tokaj in northeast Hungary, since so many clones of the variety are found around the region. This is the major variety in Tokaj, and the "flagship" native variety of Hungary in export markets. An interesting choice, in my opinion, since dry Furmint is not the easiest wine to understand. There is a reason why Furmints have been sold with at least some RS for centuries. The flavor profile is complicated, savory, and intense. Furmint doesn't have the instant fruit or recognizable flavor palate that Hárslevelű does. But it can be a great vessel for showcasing terroir, which in many places is really something special.
Furmint makes medium-to-full-bodied wines, and some of them are serious stuff! Best consumed with lots of age on them. My favorite Furmints are herbal and complex. Tasting notes can include overripe golden apple (Tokaj), crabapple (Balaton), salt and pepper, green herbs, occasionally pineapple and lemon. Its acid and structure make it extremely age-worthy, and over time Furmints will mellow out and become more harmonious. And an off-dry or sweet Furmint is really one of the best things! If we're talking about an Aszú Furmint, add candied orange peel, allspice, walnuts and smoke to the list of some of my favorite tasting notes.
Pronunciation: Foo-Ur-Mint. I normally pronounce it "fermint" for the masses, but sometimes people get confused and think I'm talking about fermentation.
Importer insights: Don't drink Furmint too young.
Olaszrizling. Olaszrizling, known more commonly as Welschriesling, is a native variety to the region (around Slovenia). Until very recently, Olaszrizling was the most planted wine grape variety in Hungary; today it is Bianca, a variety I have never knowingly tried so I must assume is going into bulk wines. Olaszrizling means "Italian Riesling," which until recently we would always tell people was a misnomer on two accounts - it's not Italian, and it's not Riesling, either. But now, experts believe it might come from Italy as a relative of White Nebbiolo. Still not related to Rajnai Rizling (Riesling), though.
The grape is thin-skinned with tightly-clustered, juicy berries. It makes mostly easy-drinking, light-to-medium-bodied white wines, and you'll find light summery versions of the variety all across Lake Balaton in the summer. The best Olaszrizlings are coming from Hungary's better terroirs (volcanic, limestone, red sandstone). These wines are distinctively almondy, ranging from green almond to marzipan depending on ripeness. They can be salty and bright, with flavors of citrus and stone fruit.
Pronunciation: Olas-rizling.
Importer insights: Olaszrizling makes fabulous skin-contact wine and sparkling wine.
More grapes coming soon! Leave your comment below if there’s a particular grape you’d like me to talk about.