Bussay Pince
CSÓKASZŐLŐ
2022
Dr. László Bussay founded the Bussay Winery in the village of Csörnyeföld in Western Hungary in 1989. The Zala region, once famous for its wines, had no notable wineries left in 1989, and the Bussay family was eager to see the potential of both white and red varieties on their estate after the fall of Communism. Today the winery is 5.5 hectares, and László’s daughter Dorottya is the head winemaker. They certified organic in 2018, and had two wines (one of them the Csókaszőlő) selected among the top 30 wines of Hungary in Decanter Magazine in 2020.
Csókaszőlő is an ancient native Hungarian variety rarely planted in Hungary today. The berries are almost black in color (like the Csóka bird the wine is named after), leading to a ruby-hued wine with ample spice and complexity.
Bussay’s Csókaszőlő from the warm hot 2022 vintage is our favorite yet. Cranberries and currants on the nose, with cherry lozenges, spicy wild cherries and a hint of smoke on the palate. Great finesse and length. The wine was fermented spontaneously with native yeasts, and spent 7 months in 200, 500 and 1000 L Hungarian oak. Unfined, organic and vegan.
From Wine Enthusiast: “A bouquet of cassis, tobacco leaf and bittersweet chocolate paves the way for flavors of cranberry, cherry, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, sage and lavender. While sturdy tannins coat the tongue and gums, a wash of soft acidity keeps a feeling of balance on the palate.” (91 Points, December 2023)